Wednesday, September 12, 2012
A question: Where's your waist? If you're stumped, chances are you don't really know your waist size either. That means your pants don't fit. To remedy this, place a tape measure around your midsection just above your hipbone. Commit the number to memory.
The rise is the length of the fly, or the section from the crotch to your waistband. A long rise gives you a high waist. A short rise puts you in hip-huggers. A really short rise makes you a member of Fall Out Boy.
Running vertically from the crotch to the cuff, the inseam gives you the length of your leg. It's the second number in your jeans formula (as in 34 waist, 32 inseam). Unless you have long arms and phenomenal flexibility, you might need someone else to measure this for you.
THE BELT LOOPS
Not all pants have belt loops, but if they do make use of them. They're not there for decoration.
Cell phone, keys, iPod ... The modern man has plenty to lug around with him. That is no excuse for overloading your pockets and ruining the contour of your pants. There are a wide variety of side pockets: on the seam, diagonal jets, slanted, depending on the formality of the pant. At the back you can choose buttoned or open pockets, one (on the right side) or two. Whatever you decide, lose the bulging wallet.
After having a moment in the eighties, cuffs are more the exception than the rule, except for those jean connoisseurs who like to show off their shuttle-loom-spun Japanese denim. With trousers, if you do choose cuffs, be sure the tailor makes them in proportion to your body size. Too big and you'll look like an extra from The Untouchables.
More than any other item of clothing, your trousers take a pounding. From your morning commute to hours sitting on a bar stool listening to Brian from sales, your pants' arduous routine requires that they be durable. They also have to be appropriate for the season. If you're playing golf at lunchtime you might want to leave your tweed pair at home .